A couple of energy saving tips that are easy for anyone to handle. On the right is ceiling boot installed pre drywall. There is a 1/2 " raised lip around the opening of the boot that the drywall hanger will use as a guide to route the drywall allowing the boot to fit. This leaves a gap about 3/16 " between the "lip" and the drywall that will get covered by the register. When the furnace blower is running it creates a draw at the gap pulling attic air into the conditioned space. If you dont believe me that's okay I didnt believe it either. Luckily I have equipment to test air flow. Using a calibrated capture hood 8 second floor grills were measured and recorded for cfm. After removing the grills (using a phillips bit or 1/4" nut driver), caulking the gap and reinstalling the grills we measured again. The total airflow was lower by 27 cfm, about 4%. If your unsure of how much that is, a standard exhaust fan in a powder bath will usually be 25 cfm. Reducing infiltration by that much for a few tubes of caulk and 2 hours of time is well worth it.

The second fix is easier yet. If you have can lights installed in any ceiling below an attic there will be a similar gap. Most can light trims pull down and pivot without needing to be removed. With your same tube of caulk and ladder hit all the can lights adjacent to attics and you will have made a simple inexspensive improvement.

If you dont have a caulking gun, no sweat. Most of the home centers sell caulk in a squeeze tube that is easy to use and reseal.